West of Muscat the Hajar Mountains hide one of Oman's prettiest villages. After an off-road drive up Wadi Mistal we reach Wakan, perched at 2,000 m, where stone houses and terraces of apricot, pomegranate and grape trees cling to the slope; a short guided walk up the village steps ends at a viewpoint over the wadi. Back in the valley we visit Nakhal Fort, built on a rocky outcrop to guard the oasis, and climb its towers for views over the palm plantations. A stop at the Al Thowarah hot spring, where warm water flows through the date gardens, completes the circuit before lunch at a local restaurant and the return to Muscat. The fort is closed on Fridays.